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迪奥涉嫌抄袭中国马面裙，被骂上热搜！“文化挪用”为何屡屡引发众怒？

admin2024-11-14最新消息6

又是迪奥！继眯眯眼事件后，迪奥再一次引发热议。

事情是这样的：有汉服爱好者发现，迪奥新上市的一件标价2.9万元的裙子，与中国传统服饰马面裙的设计非常相似。

奥官网介绍里称这条半裙采用标志性的Dior廓形，是一款全新的优雅时尚的单品，并未说明灵感来源。

这样的表述引发诸多网友不满，随后，迪奥抄袭相关话题冲上热搜第一。

对于不了解汉服的同学们来说，可能还不知道什么是马面裙，但是你肯定见过，它在古装剧中的出镜率非常高。

马面裙，又名马面褶裙，中国古代汉族女子主要裙式之一，前后里外共有四个裙门，两两重合，外裙门有装饰，内裙门装饰较少或无装饰，马面裙侧面打裥，裙腰多用白色布，取白头偕老之意，以绳或纽固结。

The Chinese horse-face skirt, or ma mian qun, dates back to the 10th century Song dynasty and wascommonly worn by women during the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties.

中国的马面裙可以追溯到10世纪的宋朝，在明朝(1368-1644)和清朝(1644-1911)时期，女性普遍穿着马面裙。

The wraparoundgarmentfeatures pleated fabric on either side when draped. Four slits down the sides make it suitable for horse-riding, though its name refers not to the animal but to defensive structures jutting out over city walls in ancient China.

这种包裹性的服装在垂下时两边的织物都有褶皱。两侧的四个裙门使它适合骑马，尽管马面裙中的马不是指动物，而是指中国古代城墙上突出的防御性建筑。

所以，马面并非大家认为的牛头马面的那个意思，是城墙体系中一种用于防御的结构，也叫台城。

The skirt was very popular in the Ming Dynasty from empress to ordinary people. According to different classes and occasions, the material, pattern, and color of horse face skirts are different.

在明朝，从皇后到普通人，这种裙子都非常流行。根据不同的阶级和场合，马面裙的材料、图案和颜色都有所不同。

For example, Princess Diana wore a red silk satin embroidered horse face dress, which in China indicated a girls vision for a happy marriage, 40 years ago in her first royal dinner after engagement.

例如，戴安娜王妃40年前在订婚后的第一次皇家晚宴上穿了一件红色丝缎绣花马面裙，在中国，这表示一个女孩对幸福婚姻的憧憬。

迪奥不是唯一使用马面裙元素的西方品牌。

早在2010年，另一品牌香奈儿（Chanel）的早秋手工坊系列，就推出一系列以中国为灵感的服装，其中包括以品牌标志性粗花呢面料制作的套装搭配剪短的马面裙。但该系列名字就叫巴黎——上海，就连走秀发布也是在上海完成的。

The horse-face skirt has drawn the attention of French fashion houses before, but with due recognition of the source of inspiration.

马面裙以前也曾引起过法国时装公司的注意，但这家公司对其灵感来源给予了应有的认可。

Chanel’s 2010 Paris-Shanghai collection was inspired by elements from Chinese culture and included a shortened horse-face skirt.

香奈儿2010年巴黎-上海系列受来自于中国文化的元素启发，该系列中包括一条短款的马面裙。

而此次迪奥翻车最主要的原因，是使用了中国的传统服装元素却绝口不提，反而称其为品牌标志性廓形。

而它所谓的这种标志性廓形，是指上小下大的A字型（A-Line）。在当代时装史上，一般认为这样的A字型服装是由迪奥品牌的创始人克里斯蒂安·迪奥（Christian Dior）于1955年开创。

很快，该事件在网上引发了热议。

A major concern of some Hanfu lovers is that, given Diors global influence, its global consumers take it as a Dior original, Chinese horse face skirt would instead to be taken as a "copycat" by some people who are not familiar with Chinese culture, which is confusing.

一些汉服爱好者的一大担忧是，鉴于迪奥的全球影响力，其全球消费者将其视为迪奥的原创，中国的马面裙反而会被一些不熟悉中国文化的人视为山寨，这会混淆视听。

In response, a Weibo history blogger posted: I hopecopyrightlawyers and experts from cultural preservation units will jointly evaluate this matter and pay attention to its foulness. This is not justplagiarism.

对此，一位微博历史博主发帖称：希望版权律师和文保单位的专家共同评估此事，关注这件事里的猫腻。这不仅仅是抄袭。

Some others take the issue as "cultural exchanging" rather than copycatting. They said that the issue is a lesson Chinese people should learn from so that in the future we would invest more to promote our own culture.

还有一些人认为这个问题是文化交流而不是抄袭。他们说，这个问题是中国人应该吸取的教训，今后我们应该投入更多资金来保护我们自己的传统文化。

在这场争议中，有一个词被反复提到，就是文化挪用（cultural appropriation）。

那么，你知道到底什么是文化挪用呢？

In the halls of academia, discourse regarding culturalappropriationarose in the late 1970s, sparked by the publication of Edward Said’s famous book Orientalism.

20世纪70年代末，爱德华·赛义德的著作《东方主义》的出版引发了学术界关于文化挪用的讨论。

In this work, Said explored how, in the West, cultural notions of the orient invariably aided and abetted the material and cultural plundering of Asia.

在这部作品中，萨义德探讨了在西方，关于 "东方 "的文化概念是如何助长对亚洲的物质和文化掠夺。

Cultural appropriation refers to the use of objects or elements of a non-dominant culture in a way that reinforcesstereotypes or contributes to oppression and doesnt respect their original meaning or give credit to their source.It also includes the unauthorized use of parts of their culture (their dress, dance, etc.) without permission.

文化挪用指的是以强化刻板印象或助长压迫的方式使用非主流文化的物品或元素，并且不尊重其原始意义或不对其来源给予肯定。文化挪用的概念中还包括未经许可使用其文化的一部分（他们的服饰、舞蹈等）。

Cultural appropriation is the social equivalent of plagiarism with an added dose of denigration.Its something to be avoided at all costs, and something to educate yourself about.

文化挪用相当于社会上的剽窃行为，还加上了诋毁的成分。这是应该不惜一切代价避免的事情，也是应该警醒自己不应当做的事情。

类似的事情在国外也不少。每逢有明星踩雷，都少不得被批评。

Rapper Cardi B created a stir on social media when she posed as the Hindu goddess Durga for a photoshoot. The singer was called out for cultural appropriation for the photo that saw her with 10 arms and holding a shoe in her hands.

说唱歌手卡迪·B在社交媒体上引起了轰动，因为她假扮印度女神杜尔迦拍照。照片中，她她有10条胳膊，手里拿着一只鞋，被指责为文化挪用。

Multi-Grammy award-winning singer, Adele hit social media trends recently but sadly, it wasnt for her music. The singer posted a picture of herself from the Notting Hill Carnival in London, dressed in a Jamaican-flag string bikini top and hair tied up in Bantu knots. While fans showered her with love for her stunning transformation, there were several others who accused her of cultural appropriation and criticised her for trying to use an Afro hairstyle.

多次获得格莱美奖的歌手阿黛尔最近在社交媒体上大放异彩，然而并不是因为她的音乐。这位歌手发布了一张她在伦敦诺丁山狂欢节上的照片，她身穿牙买加国旗串联的比基尼上衣，头发被绑成班图结。虽然粉丝们对她的惊人转变充满了喜爱，但也有一些人指责她的文化挪用，批评她试图使用非洲人的发型。

Kim Kardashian had to brave a similar storm in April when she donned a maang-tikka. The star was accused of appropriating Indian culture when she shared the pictures on her Instagram handle. "My culture isn’t your ‘aesthetic’ or ‘style’, so please show some respect," a social media user said while slamming the star.

今年4月，金·卡戴珊也不得不面对类似的风暴，她模仿印度女性在额头上佩戴了饰品。当她在Instagram上分享这些照片时，被指控挪用印度文化。我的文化不是你的‘审美’或‘风格’，所以请尊重一点，一名社交媒体用户在抨击这位明星时说。

截止目前，迪奥并未对此事作出回应。

While the skirt can no longer be found on its mainland China site, and was marked as sold out on the Hong Kong site, it is still available in the city’s physical Dior stores for HK$30,000 (US$3,820).

虽然这条裙子在中国大陆的网站上已经买不到，在香港的网站上也被标记为售罄，但在香港的迪奥实体店仍然可以买到，售价为3万港元(合3820美元)。

This is not the first time that Dior – part of the world’s largest luxury group, LVMH – has sparked controversy in China.

这并不是世界上最大的奢侈品集团LVMH旗下的迪奥第一次在中国引发争议。

Last year, it took down a photo at a Lady Dior show in Shanghai after it was criticised for perpetuatingstereotypesand smearing Asian women with its portrayal of spooky eyes and a gloomy face.

去年，迪奥撤下了在上海举行的Lady Dior 展上的一张照片，因为这张照片被批评为延续了刻板印象，并以诡异的眼睛和阴沉的脸的形象抹黑亚洲女性。